Day 8: A Gudiña to Campobecerros to Laza (35KM)

This morning I took a while to get going on the trail. My shin splint has worsened. We started out before dawn, again. I enjoy walking in these quiet morning hours. We heard last night it might rain today. It is also one of the biggest climbing days of the trail. When we began we said we would evaluate our progress (and our bodies) in Campobecerros and decide if we would stay in the albergue or continue to Laza. We saw the clouds gathering behind the hills we would eventually climb, and in the pre-dawn darkness we saw lightening in orange, yellow, and white light up the sky in the distance. Don walked his pace, and I hobbled mine for a while. Then we stopped on the side of the road for a snack of crackers, and we wondered if we would have to try our rain gear. We continued uphill, a rewarding climb! We could see the new highway being built through these mountains. The Camino took us down into a valley near the road works. I can’t put my finger on it (or words to it) right now, yet there something inspiring about seeing something from afar, and then getting to see it up close, too. We arrived in Campbocerros and heard Davide’s distinctive laugh - so we knew we had found the cafe in this small village. Davide introduced us to Rasario, who brought us some cafe con leche and bread. I had mentioned my shin hurt, and Davide said he had been a physical therapist for over 10 years. I asked him about an anti-inflammatory cream, like icyhot, I could buy. He told me, and Rosario wrote the name down on a piece of paper saying, “Just show this to the pharmacist, and you’ll get the right thing.” How kind! We refilled our water and felt ready to continue. It turns out our brief respite in the cafe came at the perfect time for missing the rain storm. As we headed out of the village and down the mountain passes, we saw places where rivulets of water had played in pine needles. Don, Davide and I walked at our own paces for a while. At one point I rounded a corner to see Don sitting next to his pack with a HUGE smile on his face. True joy - what a great thing to see. I decided to try to walked a bit slower because of my shin splint - especially downhill. I stopped at the different villages’ water fountains to splash water on my face. Rather than see the albergue as the destination, I tried to soak up the sun and moments of walking as the goal. (I’m not sure that’s clear, but I’m a bit tired.) Anyway, we finally arrived at the albergue to meet others trying to dry out after being caught in the rain. I went to the pharmacy and showed them the name on the paper and got the cream for my leg. It’s helping a little bit. Davide, Edith, Don and I decided to cook dinner together. Davide was getting the pasta ready, and Don had gone across the street to talk to the neighbor who had tomatoes, onions, and peppers growing. Don asked if we could buy a few for dinner. This guy and Don started talking, he learned Don farmed, and he invited him into the garden to walk around. He got a bag and filled it with tomatoes, onions, and peppers, and he wished us well on our journey. What a sign of hospitality! After dinner we walked around trying to find WiFi and ice cream, but my leg felt more sore and I needed to return to rest. So, now off to bed. Until next time, Buen Camino!